I had booked this trek back in late May on the advice of Brian from s/v Darramy. We had decided against doing the Inca Trail after hearing the number of daily walkers was(500)and figuring there would be no peace. Other issues for us included no road hiking and quality porters. Brian assured us this was the case with the Qente agency and also provided his actual guides name whom I requested on booking.
When we finally arrived in Cuzco we went and met my booking agent Wilbert and a few days later had our briefing from a guide named Ferdinand. By this time we were getting some feedback from other travellers who had already finished other Lares treks and there were a couple of negative reports. None of these concerned our agency but some of the others complained of un-hygienic cooking practises, camping compounds littered with garbage and long stretches of road as well as poor transfers back to Cuzco.
Our attention also went up when Wilbert told us that the back end of our route was now closed to foreigners because of concerns over littering and noise. This didn't really surprise us after what we have seen the last few years regarding young backpackers behaviour. This was something I have always rightfully or wrongly cut some slack on, because of my own behaviour in a some what misspent youth. On the other hand the amount of garbage I have seen strewn and carelessly discarded by locals in almost all third world countries leaves most first world backpackers looking like saints.
We had our final briefing and then finished renting our sleeping bags, walking sticks and a last minute flurry of shopping for thermal linings and socks. Early to bed on Sunday night after packing our allowance of eight kilograms which was all we were allowed on the mules and had to include our potable water for drinking. Everything and anything else had to be carried on our day packs. We got up at three forty five and were surprised when our guide showed up early and with two of the porters to help carry stuff. We were already leaving early because of a road closure around Calca and so were feeling a bit rushed. Our hostel was just off the Plaza de Armas so we walked the bags down to the square and were rewarded with the first of many pleasant surprises. Instead of a little white car van we found a luxuriously appointed tourist van.
We made a quick exit from the quiet city streets climbing the hills to Sacsayhuam and heading off to Calca via the Sacred Valley. After the lackadaisical attitude of most of the other bus drivers we had experienced it was refreshing to have a driver who actually slowed down and took care on the corners and with approaching vehicles in single lane situations. After a quick pit stop at Calca for some supplies we left the main road and headed up what can only be described as a goat trail or at best a rough construction road. I don’t think that any North American or European would even consider taking a vehicle like this into these conditions. Again at times I swear only parts of the tires on the outside were touching the road on the canyon rim. Sometimes the abyss was easily in the thousands of feet with the added bonus of a raging boulder strewn river coursing below. Most of the time I would just look away or worse close my eyes but that only brought visions of the Toronto news dailies announcing the demise of four of its citizens in a tragic South American bus tragedy. Finally arund nine am we arrived at the starting point where a breakfast tent was set up and while we had tea the horses were loaded.to be continue
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